A pernicious inverted snobbery is stalking the land. It’s become habitual for restaurant critics to take every opportunity to deride fine dining. They write as if it were some contemptible gastronomic heresy. Just a hint of theatrical oo-la-la, suave service, comfortable upholstery is ridiculed. Above all, tasting menus, are held up as if they were smelly underpants, to be sniffed at by a well-bred contemporary nose. It’s as if the acme of modern eating out should be reduced to a narrow paradigm rather than been treated as a spectrum o. A spectrum which different kinds of restaurants serve different people looking for different experiences on different occasions. I’m all for the democratisation of eating out, but surely by condemning high-end restaurants reduces the possibility of pleasure. As too often in this country, food is used as a form of social exclusion, and, instead of promoting the idea that anyone should feel an inalienable right to go to such places (as the do in Italy, Spain, France, Denmark, for example), the message is given de haut en bas that you really shouldn’t bother with fine dining because you really wouldn’t enjoy it.’ Like all dining, fine dining can be well done or badly done. When it’s badly done, it’s a tedious bore of prodigious expense. When well done, it is an impeccably crafted journey that cossets the senses. It lifts the spirits and sends us out soothed and strengthened to face the sturm und drang of life. And, dare I say that many of us actually enjoy the occasional dress up and pamper with expensive luxury . Snowy napery, heavy gravity cutlery, wine glasses as delicate as a butterfly’s wing, the deft way our needs are met, nay, anticipated. The understated psychotherapy of the high grade waiter, the ordered swish and glide of the service, the sense that we don’t have to worry about anything (except possibly the bill). Even tasting menus have their part to play in this palliative process. The whole anxiety of deciding what to eat is taken away from us. There’s no havering over whether this dish will go with that, or wishing we had what someone else is having. Tasting menus bring equality before the menu. The whole experience is – or should be – akin to sinking into the back seat of a turbo-charged Bentley Continental and saying ‘Home James, Home James, and don’t spare the horses’ to the.