‘Tis the season for agretti, also known as saltwort, Roscano, monk’s beard and land seaweed (and indeed, it is sometimes compared with samphire).
We Italians love the fleshy, needle like leaves which we serve simply dressed with lemon juice and olive oil. We’ve come a long way since it was grown to make soda ash for glass and soap making.
It’s not easy to find in the shops, so do look out for it springing up on restaurant menus this spring. You could even try growing your own with seeds from seedsofitaly.com.